Seeing more of Yunnan

Yunnan's landscape continues to impress me. I am back in Kunming after traveling from the north-western tip to the southern border. I have experienced the diverse culture and landscape influenced by Tibet in the north and Southeast Asia in the south. In the north, I cuddled under my heated blanket, looking out the window onto prayer flags and snow capped mountains. While in the south, I woke up in sweats but was rewarded with exotic fruits from across the Laos/Burma border.

On April 27th, the group dispersed after two weeks of traveling in the north, to begin our own field research projects or continue language class. I decided to take a couple of days and travel to southern Xishuangbanna prefecture with my friend Jordan. I was excited to visit this jungle landscape, but the juxtaposition after the northern mountains happened too quickly for me. It was so hot!! After 17hrs on a sleeper bus from Dali (driving for only 14hrs, they let us sleep until 7 in the morning, instead of kicking us off at 4 A.M.), Jordan and I spent the first day exploring Jinghong, the capital city in the Xishuangbanna province.


Xishuangbanna is known for Dai minority culture, famous Pu-er tea plantations, its location, straddling the Mekong, and jungle trekking. Jinghong was a lively city though something felt slightly rough about the culture and the people. The city felt like it was endured, not loved. The people seemed to come from the surrounding rural villages but as usually is the case, economic incentives forced them into the city. Only when you leave Jinghong and venture into the jungle does the area come alive. On the second day, Jordan and I followed a hidden trail through the jungle, climbing through branches and fallen tree trunks, surrounded by the cacophony of hundreds, maybe thousands of fauna. And look what we found:






Yes, the perfect way to relieve a body caked in sweat- a peaceful waterfall.

The next day, we followed the contour of the Mekong to Ganlanba, but to our dismay found an Dai village in the process of transforming into a tourist attraction. Although I was enjoying myself, I decided I was ready to head back to the cool comfort in Kunming, our homebase this semester. (Jordan decided to stay on for another day) That night I took the sleeper bus but when I woke up and walked off the bus, I realized my purse had been razored during the night. At the bottom of the bed is a cove for feet to extend out and I had stashed my purse under my feet. I was banking that no one would reach inside the cove, into my bag, under my feet, under my blanket. But somehow the front and the back of the bag were slashed open. Fortunately, I had slept with a money belt with most of my money, passport, and credit cards. The thief, who I slept next to, only stole my wallet with some money, driver's license, cell phone, and a couple of other small insignificant items, like my chewing gum!? If he had seen my backpack behind my head with electronics, I would be in a different emotional state right now. Lesson learned- thieves are rampant in China, put luggage underneath the bus and sleep cradling your important belongings, even if that means you get half of an already tiny bus bed.

Now I am back in Kunming and I already feel back at home. I decided to spend this last month taking language classes and pursuing my research interest on my own, so therefore unofficially. I would greatly benefit from a two-person language class, for four hours each day for three more weeks. In the afternoons and weekends, I can visit hospitals, universities, and rural doctors to gather field research on the changes in Traditional Chinese medicine. I will be getting the best of both worlds- improving language and conducting research. I am excited to feel focused and hard at work for the last month of this semester.

Back to Shangri-la

Songzanlinsi Temple in Shangri-la/Zhongdian:


A painting of the temple and surrounding area, on the wall of the temple:



Blessed by two living Buddhas:


Having a camera war with the monks- we both were trying to sneak pictures of each other:

Monks debating Buddhist philosophy:

Visiting a Tibetan orphanage (where all the children remain there and call this place home):




Tibetan dance performance for tourists:

Yak butter tea and yak cheese:

Dabaosi Temple (Monk does 1000 prostrations per day):



Then a visitor came- hello Jordan Maseng! (he has been traveling through China and Vietnam this semester):

Market Day in Shaxi

Walking the animals through the town square:


Oh the meat section:










These are the products my homestay mother makes- thin sheets of bean paste?:

Kate and her homestay mother, who makes and sells noodles:

Traditional Chinese Medicine herbs:

A local Yi woman, getting medicine from the doctor's office:


Yummy spices:

Some scenic shots:

Late Night Outhouse Trip

Last night I opened the door of the outhouse, meaning hole in the ground next to the pigs, chickens, and geese, as my head lamp shone on one tarantula-like spider and another only slightly less intimidating spider. I tried to make my pee as nonthreatening as I could.
C'mon can I get a cookie?

On the Road Again ;)

Now we are on the road. I know I just explained my daily routine, but nothing is permanent here. This semester is a wonderful survey of life in Yunnan, China. But we are just wetting our feet, so we are on the move. Beginning last Saturday, for two weeks the entire group is traveling together to visually see more of Yunnan and it's nationality groups. Ethnic nationalities or minorities, as they are referred to, have an special role here because they give China uniqueness and definition. Without China's fifty-five ethnic nationalities' customs and dresses, what would China look like? A man in a suit? Although ethnic minorities only occupy about 7% of the population, they allow China to call themselves a "multi-national country". The Han majority, 93%, is really a group almost as the default.

As excited as I was to begin this new phase of the trip, I was equally nervous about traveling by bus as a big group. Something feels superficial about this form of travel- jump off the bus, make a big splash, then scurry off to the next place. Although I genuinely enjoyed myself in the first two locations, Weishan and Dali, I felt slightly disconnected from China.

In Weishan, we watched a local Yi ethnicity dance performance:

Evan getting into character:

From Weibaoshan Daoist mountain:

Calligrapher:

(The middle calligraphy painting is now in my possession)

Keli'i feeling extremely enthusiastic:

Before Dali, we visited a tie-dye factory, making tie-dye products is now a specialty of this region:


Our very own Bush Sr. also made this visit: (He is looking good in that tie-dye!)


But then you have a day like yesterday (4/15/09), when you realize how privileged you are to have the insider tour. Yesterday morning we visited a Bai ethnic village, with a model bi-lingual school. This school teaches both Bai language and Putonghua, standardized Chinese (mandarin), as a second language. The school also attempts to preserve traditional Bai culture by reviving and teaching local songs and dance. And oh man were the kids adorable! This school was established by a retired couple, husband from Australia, wife from China, supported by the organization SIL, initially known as Summer Institute of Linguistics. working to revive lesser-known languages.








Then that afternoon we found our night's residence, hidden within a mountain, was a beautiful Buddhist temple. Inside one of the temples were dorm rooms for the few visitors who frequent this special oasis. As we climbed up the steep set of stairs, I could feel the air begin to change. Life felt calm. Facing us was an enormous golden Buddha, with an wide-open smile. I just smiled back. The next morning we were greeted by monkeys.

The entrance:



Beth and I just sitting and enjoying the view:





Small hike to Shaxi, but still/always stunningly beautiful:

We started our hike in Shibaoshan, famous for ancient grottos:



Now, I just started my Shaxi rural village homestay. This place is wonderful. It is beginning to develop yet somehow attempting to maintain it's unique character. We will stay here for four days, doing a community study project to better understand China's rural life. I will begin my ISP topic, how rural TCM doctors learn their trade (compared with TCM university students).
Side note: my homestay mother has the warmest smile and it's just me and her fourteen year old daughter.

Homestay mother:
Father just got home that night: