Last Thursday, the 19th, Kate, Liz, and I walked to the bus ticket office planning for a Friday evening departure. On the way there, Kate and I realized we were ready to take off that night. It makes economical and logistical sense to take a night time sleeper bus, where you can sleep the night instead of waste a day sitting upright. So instead of waiting another day, Kate and I hurried home to throw our things into our backpacks. Without hesitation we threw ourselves head first into Kunming's crazy bus station. Before the cab stopped moving, hagglers surrounded us. Every loud "HEL-LO" was followed by shouting different destinations. Kate and I were giddy to begin our trip and we met the calls with smiles and laughter, while shaking our heads in disbelief. We thought we had arrived safely when we passed a lame security x-ray, with no one supervising, and walked out to the rows upon rows of buses. But our bus door was guarded. A man, claiming to be the manager, stood in front requesting we pay 10 yuan each for gas. I found a nearby local Chinese man and asked if he was also expected to add money to his bus ticket. He shook his head. However, this "manager" was unwilling to budge and we literally could not get on the bus until we paid the price for being a foreigner.Now sleeper buses are quite an experience: there are three rows of three extremely thin bunk beds, separated by rows that can only be walked through sideways, and no bathrooms. Kate and I set up camp in our little cribs and watched the arrival of our new sleeping mates.
A couple with their little child got the coveted beds in the back row, while a group of 26 yr-old male hair cutters surrounded the beds in front of us. At first the guys would turn around and timidly say "hello" and we just smiled back, tired of obviously standing out. But then we began to engage them in conversation and I was impressed how far my Chinese conversational skills have come since my first initial interaction on the plane to Kunming.
We arrived in Lijiang at 6ish, but they let us sleep until 7:30 and then we were off to a full day of bike riding, exploring, eating, and enjoying this spot, though touristy.
DAY 1 at the gorge:
We met up with Liz the next morning and began our trip together--
The hike itself was the really outstanding part of this adventure. We traced the different contours and changes of the mountains, which all overlooked this incredibly blue-colored gorge and massive snow-capped mountain range.
The hike began with an amazing view:
We followed the curve of the mountain and then followed a steep path to the highest point. This leg took us by surprise and the altitude made it difficult to move quickly.
We arrived at the Tea Horse guesthouse just in time for dinner.
DAY 2:
The view when we woke up in the morning.
The second day the path had more beauty to observe.
We couldn't help throwing open our arms.
DAY 3:
The next day we walked, actually climbed, down to see the gorge.
This is the view of our morning climb down to the gorge.
Hanging out in local fields.
After we visited Baishuitai, famous for limestone terraces.
This natural spring is a holy sight that also supplies the water running over the limestones.
Insane ride on floor of a bus to Shangri-la.
Finally Shangri-la.
Me on the sleeper bus home.
